Cristóbal Balenciaga, Venet, Givenchy at Château de Haroué

April 30th, 2010

May 6, 2010 – August 17, 2010
Château de Haroué, France’s Lorraine region, near Nancy

hubert-de-givenchyTo feel like a modern day princess this is one exhibit you cannot miss. Hubert de Givenchy has curated an exhibit of the late Christobal Balenciaga’s gowns. Many of these gowns were especially made for his premier clients. “It will be a modest exhibition, but it will include the most magical gowns ever made, like the historical wedding dress Balenciaga made for Queen Fabiola of Belgium,” enthused Hubert de Givenchy, curator of this upcoming fashion exhibit. This exhibit will be held at the Château de Haroué, an 18th-century castle built and still owned by the Beauvau-Craon family in France’s Lorraine region, near Nancy.

On display will be a total of 45 dresses. The Givenchy archives and a Madrid museum lent Givenchy dresses he made for Audrey Hepburn; Philippe Venet got some from his clients, and Bunny Mellon lent a lot of her Balenciaga gowns. Christiane de Nicolay-Mazery will publish a 144-page book at Flammarion especially for the occasion.

Smoking Genius

April 28th, 2010

Q: What famous designer was made successor to the late Christian Dior at the tender age of 21?

ysl

A: At 17, he left for Paris where he showed his drawings to Michel de Brunhoff, director of Vogue, who published several of them immediately. In 1953, Yves Saint Laurent won first prize in a competition sponsored by the International Wool Secretariat, which led to a job with Christian Dior. Following the death of Dior in 1957, Saint Laurent at the age of 21 was put in charge of an effort of saving the Dior house from financial ruin. Saint Laurent launched his first collection for the company, the Ligne Trapéze, that year. It was a resounding success the world over and won him a Neiman Marcus Oscar. In 1960, Saint Laurent created his revolutionary “Beat Look” collection which used couture techniques to refine street style.

However, his dramatic designs were too much for the house of Dior and a year later they lifted bars on his national service. When he returned from service in 1962, Saint Laurent set up his own fashion house with Pierre Bergé and continued to rock the establishment. In 1966, he introduced le smoking, his legendary smoking suit, which prompted the consequent androgynous revolution. He is now credited with a range of other innovations including the reefer jacket (1962), the sheer blouse (1966), and the jumpsuit (1968), as well as ready-to-wear culture as a whole.

In October 1998, Yves Saint Laurent showed his last ready-to-wear collection for the Rive Gauche label he had founded more than 30 years before.

All A Flutter

April 26th, 2010

butterflies1

This is not so much a new hot trend as it is a reoccurring popular theme. Over the years certain motifs have remained popular among fashion designers, and one of the most popular is that of the butterfly. Maybe it’s because this colorful and delicate creature is a sign of the coming of Spring? I don’t know. But you can find these creatures on everything from apparel, house wears, accessories, to home goods.

A couple of seasons back Alexander McQueen created a butterfly hat that set hundreds of moving faux red butterflies dancing around the wearer’s head. Gucci Group also once did a handbag collection with these little darlings.

The point is that although the butterfly may fly in and out of trends it will never go out of style.

1) 1980s Oscar De La Renta Butterfly Dress, $950 from Shrimpton Couture
2) Suede and Leather Butterfly Bag, $750 from 1st Dibs
3) 1960’s Vera Butterfly Shift Dress, $189 from Posh Girl Vintage
4) ”Papillon de Nuit” Black and White diamond Butterfly Brooch/Ring, $8,000 from 1stDibs
5) Vintage Trifari Bakelite Butterfly Necklace, $215 from 1stDibs

Prohibition Jewelry

April 23rd, 2010

cocktail-ringsQ: What piece of jewelry became a status symbol during the prohibitions days?

A: During prohibition in the US, cocktail rings became fashionable to wear at illegal “cocktail” parties. Women attended cocktail parties in style, flashing their glamorous, colorful rings. These rings are to be worn on the four finger on your right hand.

Reinventing the Bra

April 21st, 2010

Q: What New York socialite is responsible for inventing and holds the first patent for the modern day bra or brassiere in 1913?

mary-phelps-jacobs

A: Mary Phelps Jacob had just purchased a sheer evening gown for one of her social events. At that time, the only acceptable undergarment was a corset stiffened with whaleback bones. Mary found that the whalebones poked out visibly around the plunging neckline and under the sheer fabric. Two silk handkerchiefs and some pink ribbon later, Mary had designed an alternative to the corset.

In 1913, Mary Phelps Jacob was awarded the patent for the first modern brassiere dubbed the ‘backless brassiere’. However, Ms Phelps didn’t feel her invention had done well due to disappointing sales. She decided to flog the patent to the Warner Bros Corset Company for a measly $1,500. It was later valued at $15m!

Spare Me - The New Minimalist

April 19th, 2010

new-minimalist

We have already talked a bit about one new Spring trend, which is this move towards neutrals. Different shades of khakis, whites, greys, and flesh tones layered together. If you missed it you can visit the VSG blog and search under Trend Reports.

Along these same lines is another similar trend, which is a new kind of minimalism. How best to head into the new decade than with a clean slate? This trend is led by a resurgent Phoebe Philo at Celine who has reinvented this beautiful clean look, but with sparing details. Designers have rediscovered that less is more all over again! But this isn’t the minimalism of the 1990’s.

To work this look into your wardrobe is quite simple. Just look for simple, clean lines on silhouettes, and solid colored fabrics; preferably in white or khaki.

1. 1990s Sculptural Issey Miyake Dress, $375 from Shrimpton Couture
2. Hermès Birkin handbag, $65,000 from 1stDibs
3. Maison Martin Margiela Trench coat, from Marlene Wetherell
4. 1960s GUCCI Reptile Clutch Handbag, $600 from 1st Dibs
5. 1960’s Cartier Logo Dress,, from Posh Girl Vintage
6. RUDI GERNREICH asymmetrical dress with buttons, $950 from 1stDibs

Grace Kelly: Style Icon

April 16th, 2010

17 April - 26 September 2010
Victor & Albert Museum in London, England

grace-kelly

The spectacular wardrobe of Grace Kelly will be on display at the V&A. Tracing the evolution of her style from her days as one of Hollywoods most popular actresses in the 1950s and as Princess Grace of Monaco, the display will present over 50 of Grace Kelly’s outfits together with hats, jewellery and the original Hermès Kelly bag. Dresses from her films, including High Society, will be shown as well as the gown she wore to accept her Oscar award in 1955. These will be accompanied by film clips and posters, photographs and her Oscar statuette. The display will also include the lace ensemble worn by Grace Kelly for her civil marriage ceremony to Prince Rainier in 1956 and 35 haute couture gowns from the 1960s and 70s by her favourite couturiers Dior, Balenciaga, Givenchy, and Yves St Laurent.

1st Lady of Shoes

April 14th, 2010

Q: Aside from being the first lady of the late philippine president Ferdinand Marcos, Imelda Marcos has been tagged as one of the world’s greediest person. What is her obsession?

imelda-marcos

A: Imelda Marcos is famous for her collection of over 2,500 shoes. She currently owns a fashion line “Imelda Collection” with her eldest daughter, Maria Imelda (Imee) as designer. Products include jewelry, clothing, and of course shoes. She is sometimes referred to as the Steel Butterfly or the Iron Butterfly.

On February 25, 1986, Ferdinand Marcos and his family fled to Hawaii (via Guam) after his regime was toppled by the four-day People Power Revolution in EDSA. After they fled Imelda Marcos was found to have left behind 15 mink coats, 508 gowns, 1000 handbags and 3000 pairs of shoes.

Marcos insisted that her husband had acquired his wealth legitimately as a gold trader. By the late 1950s, she claimed, he had amassed a personal fortune of 7,500 tons of gold, and after gold prices climbed in the 1970s, the Marcos family was worth about $35 billion. However, the Bureau of Internal Revenue has no record of the Marcos family declaring or paying taxes on these assets, and the source of their wealth remains open to investigation.

Royal Graffiti

April 9th, 2010

Q: What present day designer once inscribed crude messages on the lining of his Savile Row suites made for Prince Charles?

alexander-mcqueen

A: He may be known for his shocking designs, but Alexander McQueen also is a master tailor. At age 16 he began an apprenticeship on London’s famed Savile Row tailors Anderson and Shepherd, then working for Gieves and Hawkes and the famous theatrical costumiers Angels and Bermans.. The young man who has never been able to stomach the establishment, once sewed “I am a cunt” on the lining of a jacket to be worn by Prince Charles.

 When he was 20, McQueen went on to work for Koji Tatsuno and Romeo Gigli, McQueen applied to London’s most prestigious fashion school, Central St Martins College of Art & Design for a Masters Degree. He graduated in 1991. He was famously first discovered as a designer in the 90s by Isabella Blow, the style guru and fashion director of Tatler. She bought all the clothes he made for his graduate show.

Hope Diamond May Have a Twin

April 7th, 2010

Q: What is the most expensive gem ever sold at auction?

wittelsbachdiamond

A: The world’s most expensive blue diamond, The Wittelsbach, was sold to diamond dealer, Laurence Graff, last year for $24.3 million. The 17th-century 35.56-carat stone was originally given to Infanta Margarita Teresa by her father King Philip IV of Spain on the occasion of her engagement to her uncle, Leopold I of Austria. (Any chance of tracing the earlier history of the Wittelsbach was lost when the Madrid archives were destroyed during the Spanish Civil War of 1936-39.) The bride’s father commanded the treasurer to compose a dowry from a recent acquisition of precious stones from India and Portugal. The resulting selection included a large blue diamond. Unfortunately, the marriage between the Emperor and the Infanta ended with her early death in 1675. Her jewels passed to her husband, and listed in a document dated March 23rd, 1673. The diamond remained in royal custody for over 300 years until it found its way into a private collection, where it has remained since 1964.

The first record of the Wittelsbach dates from the latter part of the seventeenth century. One fact is thus certain: the diamond must be of Indian origin. Furthermore, it has been suggested that a diamond of such a rare color must once have formed part of the famous French Blue Diamond, weighing 112½ old carats in the rough, which Tavernier bought in India and later sold to Louis XIV of France. The principal gem which this yielded is the Hope, weighing 45.52 carat, so that technical reasons alone clearly preclude the possibility of the Wittelsbach having been fashioned from the same piece of rough. The sole possibility of a connection between the Wittelsbach and the Hope lies in Tavernier’s French Blue Diamond being merely part of a much larger piece of rough that had at some time been split in two (a very unlikely occurence). However, it would be interesting to ascertain whether the Wittelsbach has physical properties similar to the Hope.